Clutch Spring Replacement 03 Honda Shadow Spirit 750

 

Welcome to the XCIC %er Master Link. Today we'll be showing you how to replace the clutch springs on an 03 Honda Shadow Spirit VT750DC. This procedure will be relevant for many other models, though a few minor details may change. This is a 30 minute to 1 hour project depending on your comfort and skill set.

Rather than write this out step by step, I'm going to include some pictures to show you where we're going to be working and then add some information from VT750DC.com. This writeup by one of their forum members is detailed and includes part numbers for the springs you'll need. Keep in mind you'll also need to purchase a fresh set of exhaust compression gaskets as you'll have to remove the exhaust to get the clutch cover off. You may also want to order a clutch cover gasket, but I opted to just use black high heat RTV sealant on mine.

So, here's the pictures and the information you need to get started.

Here's the writeup on this that I followed while doing this job. It's excellently written and proved to be a big asset to me.

Last night I finally got around to changing out my clutch springs. I have noticed over the past several months that my clutch was slipping between first/second gears under hard acceleration and that in general the clutch is “weak” on take-off. The problem was especially noticeable after the change to a 38-tooth sprocket and riding two-up. So following the advice from another forum member MattyMatty, I finally decided I needed to get heavier clutch springs. A big thanks to MattyMatty for posting the original solution it made my job much easier. Total time: · Approximately 1 – 2 hours depending on your exhaust pipes Total cost of the job: · Approximately $ 38 Tools: 1. 8mm – 17 mm sockets open end wrench, 3/8 ratchet with 6+ inch extension Supplies: 1. 4 quarts 10-40w Honda Oil 2. Oil filter (optional – depending how long it’s been since your last oil change) 3. Right side crankcase gasket (optional cost $13 you shouldn’t have to replace it unless you tear it when you remove the case) 4. 2 crush gaskets for the exhaust ($8.50 pair) 5. Barnett M-5-4 Springs – comes with 5 springs you will only need 4 ($ 15) From The Toolman Parts and #'s needed to fix weak clutch 1-Barnett spring kit # MT-5-4 ($15 or less) Kit has 5-you only need 4 1-Honda right side case gasket # 11394-MV1-850 (about $20 I think) 2-Honda exhaust crush gaskets # 18291-MM5-860 (about $7 or 8 a peice) Steps: 1. Drain the oil – 17mm drain plug Time: 5 minutes 2. Remove the right side cover, it will make it easier to get access to the back exhaust pipe acorn nuts Time: 10 seconds 3. Remove the exhaust – 12mm Acorn nuts, I believe 14mm for the rear exhaust brackets Time: 10 minutes 4. Remove the 2 bottom bolts for the right foot peg to the frame, I believe 12mm. We’re not going to remove the peg/brake assembly, removing the bolts gives you the ability to move it around to get to the bottom three bolts on the crankcase. Time: 2 minutes ***Beer Break*** 5. Loosen the tension spring on the rear brake which is on the bottom left looking at the right-side crankcase. Time: 1 minute 6. Loosen the right side (looking at the crankcase) locking nut on the clutch cable on the top the crankcase, once it’s loose you can slide off the cable from the clutch lever. Time: 2 minutes 7. Remove the 8mm bolts on the crankcase; there are approximately 14 of them. Time: 8 minutes 8. Carefully remove the crankcase cover so to not damage the gasket, mine came off easily even though the bike has 8k miles on it. Time: 5 minutes 9. Using a socket wrench remove the four bolts on the clutch plate lifter assembly…since this plate is under pressure from the springs, I loosened the bolts slowly and evenly a couple of turns at a time. Time: 5 minutes 10. Replace the springs; hold the clutch plate lifter in place as you thread the 4 bolts. Starting in a criss-cross pattern begin tightening the bolts in half-turn racket increments to make sure the plate stays vertically level as you tighten the bolts. Although I should have used a torque wrench (the specs call for 9ft lbs), I was told by the local Honda mechanic to snug them first then go around and tighten each bolt until the clutch basket moves stop tightening and move to the next bolt. Time: 15 minutes 11. Once the spring bolts are tightened, it's time to reassemble in reverse order. A couple of notes on reassembly.  First make sure your clutch lever is in the proper tensioned position before you slide the crankcase cover back on the bike. Mine needed a gentle push to seat the crankcase properly. Tighten the crankcase bolts all to snug, and then tighten criss-cross fashion to 17 lbf-ft (23 N-m). (See Torque Specs)  After each bolt is tightened do a double check by going around in a circle checking is bolt to be firmly tightened 12. Put in the oil drain plug and REFILL WITH OIL Time: 10 minutes 13. Reinstall exhaust with new crush gaskets Time: 45 minutes (damn DD Kickers!, stock pipes should be about 15 minutes tops) 14. Check your clutch lever free play, normal range should be ½ - ¾ free play on the lever. 15. Start your bike in neutral, let it warm up and then recheck your oil level. I am extremely happy with the results – the clutch is better, firm on take-off without being jerky; the slippage between gear changes is completely gone. You’ll notice a difference in pulling the clutch lever in but it’s not a big difference just a little more effort is required.

Be sure to follow us on Facebook here. 

Also check out our site for cool XCIX %er gear!

How To Adjust A Clutch On A Yamaha V Star

2003 Yamaha V Star XVS1100

Welcome to The Masterlink! Today we will be discussing how to adjust the clutch on your Yamaha V Star 1100. My scoot is a 2003 Classic model, and while much of this will be specific to this bike, a lot of it will also apply to other motorcycles. So let's jump right in.

First, we need to lift the bike in order to be able to move the side stand out of the way for this job. In order to complete this task I actually made a lift myself for less than $20 and 15 minutes of my time. You can check our Mods, Mutants, & MoneyMakers blog for information on how to build this lift for yourself. That will be a future post over there. Here is a picture of the lift in action.

Now that we have the bike lifted it is time to get to work. This whole project takes about 20 minutes once you know the procedure.

First we need to adjust the handlebar adjustment for the clutch all the way in to set handle free play as loose as possible. To do this, just loosen the lock collar and twist the threaded end of the cable in a clockwise direction until it is seated against the clutch handle bracket.

Next we move to the lower left side covers. The two covers we need to remove are the ones near the rear wheel at the bottom of the frame. You will need a set of Allen wrenches to complete this part of the job. Loosen the bolts on the larger of the two covers, but remember you do not need to take out the top 2 bolts. They are not attached to the frame.

Note that you will have to move the side stand to the downward position to get to the bottom bolt in the middle. For the bottom bolt nearest the front of the bike, the side stand safety switch is directly in the way of getting to this area. You can either remove the switch, or simply depress the button that activates it and hold it out of the way. I chose not to remove the switch...this added a little frustration to the job but I was still able to remove the bolt.

Now remove the bolts in the smaller cover that was held in place by the rear cover. This will expose your clutch adjustment screws and the lower end of the clutch cable. As you can see in the pictures, this compartment had a little dirt and grime in it. A rag with a little carburetor cleaner sprayed on it wiped this clean in just a few seconds. Do not spray the cleaner directly into the compartment.

Use a 12mm box end wrench to loosen the nut on the clutch adjuster. No need to remove it, just loosen about 1/2 turn or so.

Now that the nut is loose we can actually adjust the clutch. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to rotate the screw in the center of the nut. Yamaha recommends turning the screw to the right, just until it feels like it makes contact. They say to then back it out 1/4 of a turn. I had to back mine out about 3/4 of a turn to get the contact I desired, because the previous owner apparently spent a lot of time riding his clutch.

Once you have the screw set where you feel it needs to be, place your box end wrench back on the nut, and then hold your screwdriver tightly against the screw. Hold the screw still while using the wrench to tighten the nut. This prevents the screw from being moved while you tighten the nut.

Now move back to the handlebar and tighten the free play in the handle to take up any slack in the cable. You will want to test your clutch to be sure it is adjusted properly. I left my scoot on the lift for this step, but it is safer to take it down.

Start the bike in neutral, and shift into 1st gear keeping the clutch depressed. If your bike is still on the lift, the rear wheel may be turning. Add pressure to the rear brake and then release it to see if the wheel starts turning again. If it does, you need to tighten the set screw a little bit more. If it doesn't, slowly let out on the clutch lever. Watch for the wheel to begin to rotate and take note of the clutch lever position. You may need to alter your adjustment a couple of times to get it perfect, but this task is fairly simple.

Put your side covers back on, take the bike off the lift and go get some wind therapy.

There you have it! Now you know how to adjust the clutch on your Yamaha V Star 1100!

Be sure to check out our Facebook group, the XCIX %ers, as well as our website here. Comment and share this post with your friends so they can learn too!